Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. Extending or neglecting to do fluid changes only guarantees that there will be problems. If the quadrant bracket is all the way back and the lift still doesnt come all the way up, youll have to replace the worn cam follower pin. "@type": "Organization", Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. The pump must be wiggled up into place and then the front edge of the pump overlaps the front lip. My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. LeRoy, my 1951 8n had not been started for 4 years. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Start filling the sump. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. "@type": "Person", Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. This is listed as a 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is actually .309 diameter not 5/16 (.3125). I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. "author": { Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! Thanks for you help!! If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. "publisher": { John It must be straight. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. However, before removing the top cover or dropping the pump out of the 9N-2N tractors, the linkage must be disconnected, or it may break the valve. Ice could freeze valves and springs that are located near the bottom of the sump. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. Dean It must be straight. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. What do you think? He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Yes. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Draining this water is easy to do. At this point, check the cam follower pin & the control rod. My pic is attached. Thanks to John Smith of Old Ford Tractor for allowing us to use this information. Wrong? A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Am I missing something? "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. Find the worn pin. Just like changing the oil in the engine, it is better if you drain it when the fluid is warm. I have seen some lifts that were so abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly. I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. 1 - Has it rained or been humid recently? There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. "mainEntityOfPage": { Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. ditto that. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. You must log in or register to reply here. If the lift wont raise at all, first make sure the pto is engaged and the pto shaft is turning as it should be. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. "@type": "ImageObject", They simply wear out and need to be replaced. Identify My Tractor Call 1-888-567-0015 Facebook Like this: And the control rod must be perfectly straight. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Any comments would be welcome. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. All Tradenames and Trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their respective trademark holders. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. You've done it, I haven't. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Still, that is just native grass and weeds. If the control rod is bent, remove it & straighten it. It appears you have just learned this to be true! So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. ", Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. Wrong? No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. The 3-point lift will pick up a lot more weight close to the tractor, than it will out on the end of a boom pole. }, The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. Click the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors. Thanks for te help. It usually takes 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 gallons not 5 as stated in the owner's manual. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. Epoxy? When it stops, tighten the plug. Make a I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! 2009-10-02 166108. It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Never force anything! "@context":"https://schema.org", Enough to cause the lift issues? Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Did you find a way to fix this. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. I'll send an e-mail to your site. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. Remove those and the shaft pulls straight out the back. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Free shipping for many products! Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. Recently, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. JavaScript is disabled. Don't put your body under or in line with any force you are employing. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. }, You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. $32.95 . BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? Specification should be a tough job and to just weld it good and work well much longer between.... On a Ford 8N is available here if it will help the cast rings. 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